MASURIA AND THE SUWALKI REGION

Mazury (Masuria) is an historical and ethnographic region in northern Poland, encompassing the Masurian Lake District, a vast land subdivided into several smaller lake districts like the one around Suwalki and Augustów.

The area is often referred to as "a land of a thousand lakes", which hardly does it justice as the actual number of  lakes is about four thousand. The largest are �niardwy (113.8 sq km) and Mamry (104.5 sq km); the deepest  is Hancza (108.5 m) in the Suwalki Lake District, and the longest  is Jeziorak (27 km) in the Ilawa Lake District. Most  are linked by rivers and canals, of which the main tourist attractions are the Augustów and Elblag canals. Another very popular waterway excursion along the Great Masurian Lakes covers a distance of 88 km.

The name "Masuria" means pretty much the same as the Land of the Great Masurian Lakes, which covers some 1,700 sq km, of which over 15% is water (this is one-fourth of all the lake water in Poland), and includes Lakes �niardwy and Mamry. North-east of the Great Masurian Lakes lies the Suwalki region, stretching to the border with Lithuania and Belarus. This corner of Poland is outstanding for its scenic postglacial landscape, bizarre geology, climatic features, vegetation, wildlife, history of human settlement and ethnic structure. Masuria and the Suwalki region are a paradise for yachting enthusiasts, canoeists, hikers and walkers, and everyone who loves tranquilllity. Extensive woods, including the Pisz Forest and the Augustów Forest, provide a network of ramblers' trails ideal for hiking, biking and horse-riding. More attraction  come with the numerous Gothic castles and churches built by the Teutonic Knights who once governed this land.

Masuria Photo: GA, www.poland.gov.pl

Masuria is extremely popular with Polish holidaymakers, so it has a good network of accommodation, restaurant and water-sports facilities. In summer the major resorts (Mikolajki, Mragowo, Gizycko, and Augustów) hold many sports and cultural events.

Facts

The Elblag Canal, one of the most remarkable engineering achievements  in Poland, built between 1848 and 1876, is the only waterway of its kind in Europe, allowing you to travel by boat on land! To cope with a 100-metre difference of levels, a unique system of slipways was designed, with boats carried across dry land on rail-mounted trolleys. The slipways, which take 15-20 minutes to cross, are 350-550 m long and resemble giant rafts. Not surprisingly, the canal, leading through forests and lakes, has become onr of the region's  major tourist attractions. A one-way trip takes about eight hours. At the other end of the canal there's another fairly big town - Ostróda.

NATURE: WATER, WATER, WATER...

The Masurian landscape is extremely diversified, with lofty, steep-sided hills, rocky valleys, troughs and large lake-filled synclines carved by the Scandinavian glacier which retreated and returned here  several times. The effect of this "indecisiveness" are the frontal-moraine deposits in the form of ridges parallel to the ice front. Long, narrow trough lakes formed between the ridges. When it was retreating more steadily, the glacier exposed plains and ground moraine which became strewn with peat bogs, marshes and large, shallow lakes with numerous peninsulas, islets and coves.

In the early Middle Ages the entire lake district was covered by impassable woodland. As a result of human settlement, the forests have shrunk substantially over the centuries, yet Masuria still has more wooded terrain, water and lakes than any other region in Poland. The most valuable sections of the forests are protected by several natural landscape parks and one national park

The Pisz Forest: Masurian sea and Polish horses

Covering 86,000 hectares, Puszcza Piska (the Pisz Forest) is the biggest forest in Masuria and one of the biggest in Poland. Pine woods on outwash sands, forest lakes dotted with islands, charming spots in river bends, all contribute to the haunting beauty of Masuria. There are also larger tourist centres here, offering excellent facilities for both hikers and boaters. The forest is ideal for walking, biking and kayaking trips on which you can explore the picturesque Krutynia River or Lakes �niardwy, Nidzkie, and Bełdany.

The forest is dominated by pine and mixed pine and spruce woodland that makes up as much as 90% of its area. In the southern part you will also see birches and aspens, while in the north there are oaks and beeches. Peat bogs, which account for 11.4% of the area, are covered by alder carrs and meadows. The undergrowth contains listed plants including the Turk's cap lily, Jacob's ladder, common sundew and ten orchid varieties.

The forest was once the domain of aurochs, bears and wolverines. Its grassy clearings were grazed by herds of wild horses known as tarpans, which today can be seen at an experimental breeding station near Popielno. Now a more likely sight in the woods is a fine Masurian deer or a regal elk. The forest is also home to roe deer, wild boar, hares, foxes, badgers, martens and raccoon dogs which came here from Asia. There are also smaller numbers of wolves and lynxes. The streams and brooks attract beavers. The tree roots on the lakeshores provide shelter for otters and - a very rare sighting - American minks. Birds nesting here include the white stork, white-tailed eagle, osprey, hoopoe, corn crake, lesser spotted eagle, eagle owl, mute swan, grey heron, cormorant, crane, and many other species. This is also a paradise for anglers, with the lakes abounding in powan, whitefish, bream, roach, bleak, perch, crucian carp, pike, and tench; occasionally you may catch an enormous sheatfish or an eel.

Part of the forest is protected by the Masuria Natural Landscape Park (53,600 ha) established in 1977. The most valuable reserve is Lake Łuknajno, which is a breeding ground for the mute swan. However, the emblem of the Park is the white stork, whose nests can be found in many villages.

Facts

The 710-hectare Łuknajno Reserve near Mikołajki is home to around a 1,000 couples of mute swans. This is the biggest colony of these birds in Poland and one of the biggest in Europe. In 1977 Lake Łuknajno was inscribed on the UNESCO list of Biosphere Reserves and in the following year it was embraced by the international Ramsar Convention which protects wetlands of great natural value and important as waterfowl habitats.

A private park of wild animals has been created at Kadzidłów in the Pisz Forest. The 60-hectare park is inhabited by wolves, elks, deer, fallow deer, tarpans, wild boar, miniature goats, donkeys, and beavers. There are also  European and American bison as well as many birds, including the capercaillie, stork and crane. Some animals roam freely while others live in enclosures.

Another attraction in the forest is its patchwork of scenic lakes, notably Lake Bełdany and Lake Nidzkie. Their troughs, connected via a string of smaller lakes, make up a 37.5 km stretch of water, considered by many to be the most beautiful part of the whole Land of the Great Masurian Lakes. Indeed, the sparkling waters surrounded by dense woods make an alluring picture. New dramatic views appear at every bend on your way, and the tiny coves offer great opportunities for bathing.

Lake Bełdany lies entirely within the borders of the Masuria Natural Landscape Park, which is likely to be transformed into a national park in the near future. It is one of the  boaters' favourite Masurian lakes. In summer it changes into a kind of jet-set meeting place where you can see the best-known, classiest, and most expensive yachts, accompanied by a swarm of motor boats, water skiers and pleasure boats. Fortunately, there are so many charming spots along the shores that everyone can find something to suit their taste.

Unlike Lake Bełdany, Lake Nidzkie is placid, tranquil, even desolate in places. As a landscape reserve, it has a quiet zone off-limits for motor boats. There is just one town here, Ruciane-Nida, and two hamlets, Krzyże and Karwica. Other than that, the only human settlements are forester's lodges and remote farmsteads. Not surprisingly, the lake attracts fewer civilisation-dependent enthusiasts of water sports. The further south you go, the more deserted the area becomes. For this reason, Lake Nidzkie has gained a group of devotees who come here every year to relish its serenity and pristine nature.

Kayaking down the Krutynia River
Photo: R. M. Kosinscy, www.poland.gov.pl

Another reserve in this area is the Krutynia River, which winds its way through the forest. Ranked among Poland's most scenic kayaking routes, it is almost 100 km long and takes in many delightful lakes. The Krutynia is an easy, 86 km route, accessible even for beginners and a favourite with many canoeists because of its outstanding beauty. On your way you pass friendly villages and tourist towns. Walking and cycling trails run along the river banks . Nearby are nature reserves regarded by many as the most picturesque spots in Masuria.

Neighbouring on the Pisz Forest, Lake �niardwy is also encompassed by the Masuria Natural Landscape Park. Dubbed the Masurian sea, it is so big that you can hardly catch a glimpse of the opposite shore, and even this is possible only on a clear day. The lake has eight islands whose total area is 43 ha. �niardwy measures 22 by 13.4 km, but is not very deep (the maximum depth is 23.4m, with an average of just 5.8 m). It is a mecca for boaters: here you can feel the expanse, catch a breeze in your sails and play with the wave. But because of the rapidly changing weather, strong winds, high waves and shallow bed, Sniardwy is suitable only for experienced boaters. �niardwy is part of the 88 km Great Lake Route which continues north, taking in Masuria's second and third biggest lake, Mamry and Niegocin, on its way.

In Popielno, on the shore of Lake �niardwy, you can visit a research station of the Polish Academy of Sciences, where Polish horses are bred. They can be seen both at the station and in the nearby forest, which is their natural environment. The complex also contains a deer farm and Poland's only beaver farm.

The Augustów Forest - an erstwhile tundra

The Puszcza Augustowska (Augustów Forest), one of the most extensive forests in Poland, stretches to the  north-east of the Masurian lakes . It covers 114,000,000 ha, that is almost the whole Augustów Plain in the southern part of the Suwałki and Augustów Lake District, flat but dotted with dunes. The outwash sands are dominated by pine and spruce, with many trees over 120 years old. The forest is bisected by the winding Czarna Hańcza, the region's main river, and shelters numerous lakes ranging from small ponds to Lake Wigry,  biggest  in the Suwałki region. With Lakes Necko, Rospuda, Białe, and Studzieniczne, all connected by the Augustów Canal, it is a major attraction for canoeists and boaters. The forest is excellent for hiking and biking. The area's main tourist centre is Augustów.

Facts

The Polish horse is a descendant of the tarpan, an extinct mammal belonging to the horse family that once lived  on Europe's open grasslands, mainly steppes. The last wild representative of this species was killed in Ukraine in 1876. Attempts to re-create the tarpan were made in Poland (in Białowieża) before the Second World War by crossing domesticated specimens that had survived at some farmsteads. Today, they are bred in Popielno.

The tarpan was characterised by its small height (about 130 cm) and light body build. Polish horses are a bit heavier, with a height up to 140 cm. Like tarpans, they also change their hair from a summer (dark) into a winter (light) variety and have a distinct dark stripe along the back. They are very gentle and very enduring

The Augustów Forest is dominated by pine and pine and spruce woodland, which account for as much as 80% of the tree stand. In the southern, water-logged part, you can find carrs of black alder, aspen and ash. The wildlife comprises roe deer, deer, foxes, wild boar and hares, all fairly common in other parts of the country, as well as elks, beavers, lynxes, martens, capercaillies, black grouse, black storks, grey herons and white-tailed eagles. The Augustów Forest has been declared a wildfowl sanctuary of European significance. Some species - the dunlin, crossbill, fieldfare, black-throated diver, greater spotted eagle and short-eared owl  - have been living here for three thousand years. There are also some mud turtles, very rare in Poland. The lakes are home to rare fish like the powan and whitefish as well as to more common species: the eel, pike, bream, tench, perch and roach.

The biggest tourist attraction in the forest, and a remarkable engineering achievement, is the Augustów Canal, built between 1824- and 1839. The 102 km waterway, connecting the basins of the Vistula and Niemen Rivers, runs from the Dębowo lock on the River Biebrza to the Niemnowo lock in Belarus. The Polish section of the canal is 80 km long and includes canalised stretches of the Rivers Netta and Czarna Hańcza plus a few lakes. To negotiate the almost 55-metre drop in water level, 18 locks were constructed, of which 14 are today in Poland. Sadly, the 20 km Belarussian leg has been vandalised and needs repair. Out of the 14 locks in Poland, nine are practically in their original technical condition. There are pleasure-boats going up and down the canal, and it is also a popular kayak route which, when combined with the Czarna Hańcza route, is 98.5 km long and ranked among the most scenic  in Poland, rivalled only by the Krutynia River. What makes it particularly attractive is the fact that it is very easy, even for absolute beginners.

There are many villages and campsites along the canal, but you will also find  plenty of secluded spots here, where only humming water and chattering water birds can be heard. And there are numerous nature reserves accessible by walking and cycling trails and sometimes protecting entire lakes.

However, the two greatest treasures in this area are beyond any doubt the Czarna Hańcza River and Lake Wigry. The 147 km river, which is a tributary of the Niemen, starts on the moraine hills north of Lake Hańcza and flows through Lake Wigry. It has two dramatically different phases: the stretch from the source to Lake Wigry is wild, resembling a swift-current, high-gradient mountain stream. After the lake, the Hańcza is subdued into a lowland river, lazily meandering through the fields and woods of the Augustów Forest. Navigating its dark ribbon is a delight for canoeists.

Lake Wigry is large (2187 ha, maximum depth 73 m) and has sinuous shores. Its islands, coves and the woods around the lake have bewitched many a visitor. Indeed, the blue water contrasted with the mass of green trees stretching to the horizon is a breathtaking view you will not forget quickly. The area is dominated by a fine 15th-century hermitage that once belonged to the Camaldolese Hermits. Nearby are some 40 other lakes, among them some dystrophic lakes (low in oxygen and supporting little life), typically without any outlets or tributaries, filled with brown water and surrounded by peat-bog vegetation. Here and there you can spot a small hamlet, wayside cross, or shrine.

Both the river and the lake are encompassed by the 15,000-hectare Wigry National Park established in 1989. It is certainly one of the wildest and most scenic parts of Poland. The Park is the habitat of some 1,000 species of vascular plants, of which over 60 are under strict protection. On the lakeshores and in the forest, you can see over a dozen kinds of ferns, lycopods and plenty of flowers including 19 varieties of orchids. There are also rare plants like the insectivorous sundew, shrubby birch, marsh saxifrage, and Charles' sceptre.

The Wigry National Park is the habitat of 46 species of mammals. The biggest predators are wolves, living mainly in its southern part. There are also foxes, nocturnal raccoon dogs, otters, martens, badgers, ermines and American minks. Occasionally you can spot an elk. The most characteristic denizen is  the beaver, which has become the emblem of this Park. The colony of these rodents, Europe's largest, numbers about 250 animals.

Facts

Weighing from 18 to 29 kg, beavers live in dens or lodges, which are conical constructions built of branches and twigs, sealed with mud and reaching a height of up to 2 metres. When the water level in a stream is too low to transport food or hide the underwater entrances to their homes, these skilful rodents build dams, which allow them to raise the  water level by 30--50 cm. With its sharp teeth, one beaver is capable of cutting down a thick tree overnight. On average, beavers live about 30 years. In summer they feed mainly on herbaceous and water plants, while in winter they gnaw bushes and trees, preferably aspens, willows and hazel trees.

The Park boasts almost 200 species of birds, mainly passerines and water birds such as the mallard, mute swan, gull, tern, crane, goose, grebe, and cormorant. Birds of prey include the white-tailed eagle, osprey, buzzard, goshawk, and sparrow hawk.

North of Suwałki : the Polish Alaska

Few places look as dramatic as the dazzlingly beautiful as the north-eastern fringes of Poland. It's a land generously bestowed by Nature with undulating plains dominated by lofty hills, dozens of bizarrely shaped lakes, rivers, streams and brooks, deep ravines, and thousand of erratic boulders. The climate is one of  the harshest in the country, with an annual average temperature of just 6�C.

The landscape in this region is a kind of nature museum, a memento of the Ice Age. The "exhibition" includes all kinds of postglacial features: moraines, kames, kame terraces, eskers, drumlins, troughs, and cirques. They are young and distinct, as the glacier remained here the longest.

The Suwałki region holds 160 lakes over 1 hectare in size, including the famous Lake Hańcza. Most of them are long, narrow and deep troughs, often connected by rivers, which, like the Rospuda, constitute scenic boating course popular with conoeists. Thaw lakes are a fairly regular sight - wide, oval-shaped, with flattened shores punctuated by numerous coves. There are also countless small circular cave-in lakes, either deep, or shallow and overgrown.

As might be expected, the harsh climate has a profound influence on both the flora and fauna. Many boreal (northern) plants, unseen in other parts of the country, can be found here, notably the shrubby birch and Lapland willow. The primaeval forests that once covered the whole region have survived only in tiny patches, now breaking the monotony of the open fields.

Apart from animals common in other parts of Poland, the region is the habitat of rare boreal species such as the nutcracker, the northern birch mouse, or - in Lake Hańcza - small Scandinavian-Baltic crustaceans and the Cottus poecilopus fish. Nearly half of Poland's bird species live here, including the black stork, black woodpecker, heron, sparrow hawk, crane, buzzard, raven, and white-tailed eagle. This abundant animal world is supplemented by fish such as the powan, whitefish, European smelt, eel, river trout and crayfish, not to mention the well-represented reptiles and insects.

The pristine glacial landscapes and the spectacular wildlife are protected by the Suwałki Natural Landscape Park, established in 1976 and covering 6,284 hectares. This small area offers a stunning profusion of landforms which delight scientists with their classic shapes and visitors with their haunting beauty reminiscent of mountains. The highlights in the Park are Lake Hańcza, Góra Cisowa, and the erratic boulder reserves.

At 108.5 metres, Lake Hańcza is the deepest lake not only in Poland, but in the entire Central European Lowlands. Designated a reserve, it boasts other peculiar features like stony beaches, unique in lowland areas, a "marine" shelf, and relic species of crustaceans that are otherwise endemic to mountain lakes of Scandinavia. The 304-hectare lake is situated near the western borders of the Park and it has high, steep shores, especially in the western section. Behind it stretch forests and pastures sprinkled with villages.

Hańcza bears a striking resemblance to a mountain lake. Its waters, almost vegetation-free, are renowned for their amazing clarity, the highest of all Polish lakes. It provides shelter for 23 fish species including the rare brook minnow, Cottus poecilopus, powan, whitefish, and lake trout, reintroduced in 1991. The Park encompasses intriguing erratic boulder reserves, of which the most impressive is Bachanowo on the Czarna Hańcza, covering almost a hectare. The surrounding fields, slopes, valley bottom and river bed are all strewn with thousands of boulders and river pebbles ranging from 0.5 to 9 metres in circumference.

Another peculiarity is Góra Cisowa (Yew Mount), known locally as "Fujiyama". Though neither the highest (258 m), nor the most extensive elevation, it has nevertheless become a symbol of the Suwałki region, but this is hardly surprising if you look at the scenic, extraordinary cone rising above the steep edge of the vast Szeszupa River Valley and visible from almost every place within the Park. The incredibly regular shape, apparently defying the laws of nature, is a great puzzle for scientists. From the top you can marvel at a panorama of almost the whole Park, with its patchwork of wooded, rounded hills, blue lakes and green meadows cut by the meandering Szeszupa River.

SITES AND CITIES: SAILING AND SIGHTSEEING

Mikołajki: a busy marina

Dubbed, somewhat poetically, "the Pearl of Masuria", Mikołajki occupies a strip of land between two lakes, Mikołajskie and Tałty. In high season, the small town (population 4,000) transforms into a lively tourist hub. Crowds of holidaymakers mix with weekend and one-day trippers, ande the marina is jammed with sailing boats. Throughout the summer months, Mikołajki plays host to plenty of events including the Shanties Festival as well as prestigious regattas (notably the Journalists' Sailing Championships of Poland). Tourism is clearly the number-one business in this increasingly popular, neat and comfy town with a pleasant architecture and three bridges.

The most picturesque spots await you on Lake Mikołajskie, with a "civilised" appearance lent to it by the over 10 km-long quay, a haven for countless yachts. This is certainly the busiest marina in Masuria. Along the waterfront, you'll find kiosks with all kinds of delicacies, and if you like, you can also book a cruise here around Lake �niardwy or to Ruciane and Giżycko. A few steps away is the tremendously popular Sailing Village with its cluster of evocatively named tavernas patronised by boaters from all across Masuria who yarn about their adventures while downing beer after beer. To sail on the Great Masurian Lakes or visit Masuria without calling at Mikołajki would be an unforgivable oversight. Even if you value nature more than shanties and beer, you're bound to enjoy this short relapse into civilisation.

Giżycko: greenery and churches

Tourist brochures have proclaimed Giżycko, a sizeable town of 30,000 inhabitants, occupying a narrow strip of land between Lake Mamry and Lake Niegocin, the summer capital of Poland, and they may be right, as in high season it changes into a busy holiday and watersports centre. Over the last few years, the town has gained the status of the most fun-loving place in Masuria. Throughout July and August you can enjoy yourself at all-nightdiscos, music gigs and other performances on the shores of Lake Niegocin.

Regrettably, the town is not a harmonious structure - its vintage buildings are overwhelmed by modern architecture, so a longer walk is needed to see all that deserves to be seen. One great asset of Giżycko is its lush vegetation which prompts you to stroll around. The town has a surprising proliferation of churches representing various denominations: Catholic, Protestant, Uniate, Orthodox, Baptist, Pentecostal, and Jehovah's Witnesses.

The town boasts a beach, bathing place and two harbours. Take a walk along the long pier jutting into the lake, which is most scenic at sunset. Numerous hiking and biking trails have been laid out in the surrounding woods. Or you can go on one of the boat trips offered by local operators.

Sztynort: a boaters' mecca

Sztynort, some 30 km away from Giżycko, is one of the more interesting places in Masuria. The village lies on a pretty peninsula between Lake Dargin, Lake Kirsajty and the fairy-tale Lake Sztynorckie, surrounded by dense woods. Boasting a big waterfront and a crowded Sailing Village, Sztynort is also on a few hiking and cycling trails. A promontory on Lake Dargin holds the 7-hectare Mokre Reserve protecting alder carrs along with some ancient ash, oak, and spruce -  you may just spot an elk lurking in the thicket.

Sztynort's highlight is a 17th-century Baroque mansion set in a vast park with ancient oaks, lime-trees and hornbeams that once belonged to the Lehndorff family. Not far off are some large 18th-century farm buildings.

Sztynort harbour, with its big and sturdy piers extending far into the lake, rivals the one in Mikołajki. The local Zeza taverna, housed in an old farm building, has acquired something of a cult status among sailing aficionados. During the day the dark bar with its high ceilings is a place like many others, but at night it undergoes a metamorphosis. The rooms brighten up and there are always at least a few guitars at the wooden tables. There's loud singing of rhythmic shanties, with guests downing hectolitres of beer and raising toasts with the local specialty, herbal vodka. If you've experienced it once, you'll be coming back again and again.

Augustów: a town on three lakes

Numbering some 30,000 residents and situated in the western part of the Augustów Forest, with three lakes nearby (Necko, Białe, and Sajne), Augustów was once called the Venice of the North. In 1993, thanks to the healthy local climate and rich deposits of therapeutic muds, it gained the status of a spa. In summer the town turns into a tourist resort, with its holiday homes, marina and beach bursting at the seams while the throngs of holidaymakers enjoy themselves at events like the Augustów Summer Theatre Season or the Championships of Poland in Sailing on Anything.

The town was founded in the 16th century by King Sigismund Augustus (hence the name), who, as legend has it, wanted to commemorate in this way his first secret date with Princess Barbara Radziwiłłówna. The passionate affair is said to have earned the town many privileges. It's hard to say how much truth there is in the story, but Augustów's atmosphere is undeniably conducive to romantic strolls. The chief attractions are woodland and lakes, literally entering the town, the lovely Netta River and dramatic sunsets that make Lake Necko glow beautifully.

If you're into sightseeing, there's a spacious market-place that has survived since the times of Sigismund Augustus - and so have the adjoining streets. The centre of the market-place is occupied by a 19th-century park with some impressive trees including four maples, each of them almost 20 metres in height. Local operators offer cruises on the lakes, and the famous Augustów Canal passes by close to the town.

The Wolfsschanze: Hitler's headquarters

Near Kętrzyn, a town with a 14th-century Teutonic castle, lies the tiny village of Gierłoż. During the Second World War the Nazi East Prussian headquarters, known as the Wolfsschanze (Wolf's Lair) were situated here. The whole complex, covering 2.5 sq km, consisted of 80 structures, including 50 bunkers. With only short breaks, Hitler and his commanding staff stayed here from June 1941 to November 1944. The perfectly camouflaged quarters, linked by a system of tunnels, had concrete walls up to eight metres thick. In 1944 the Wolf's Lair witnessed the closest anyone ever got to a successful attempt to assassinate Hitler.

As the Red Army approached the area, the headquarters were evacuated and in January 1945 the retreating German troops blew up the whole complex. However, some of the bunkers and shelters survived and today you can visit the site by following a signposted trail.

Source: www.poland.gov.pl